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sewing machine

0 In Quilting/ Sewing Machines

How to get Perfect Tension on Every Stitch with the deLuxe™ Stitch System

Are you aware of the importance of even tension for your top and bobbin threads on your sewing machine? Having good tension is essential for any kind of sewing projects. But it can be tricky if you ever switch up the types of thread you use.

One key thing that sets some sewing machines apart from others is their ability to automatically adjust for lots of different purposes. As a long-time fan of HUSQVARNA VIKING® machines, I’d love to share about the deLuxe™ stitch system. It provides automatic adjustments for any sewing project, even while using the most tricky and delicate threads.

Wan to hear me talk about the struggles of thread breakage & why I love my sewing machine so much? Enjoy this quick video:

What is the deLuxe™ Stitch System?

The deLuxe™ Stitch System is a patented function on many HUSQVARNA VIKING® machines. It helps the machine automatically choose between using thread tension or thread portioning to feed thread through the machine. Whether the machine uses thread tension or thread portioning, the deLuxe™ Stitch System ensures perfect stitches while using any material and any type of thread.

Thread Tension

Nearly every sewing machine uses thread tension as the typical method to create even stitches. It involves feeding the thread through a set of plates that apply a small amount of pressure. Thread tension is traditionally adjusted manually, but newer computerized machines adjust tension automatically. Many HUSQVARNA VIKING® machines adjust tension automatically, with the option to manually adjust as well.

Thread Portioning

Some computerized sewing machines utilize a newer technique known as thread portioning. The unique thing about thread portioning is that it takes away the need for constant pressure through the tension disks. Instead, the sewing machine computer calculates out exactly how much thread is needed for each individual stitch. The machine feeds that exact length through for each stitch. Since there is no tension on the thread while using thread portioning, it does not break.

Why is the deLuxe™ Stitch System important?

While having perfect tension on any project is always lovely, the really important benefit comes in when working with metallic thread or other thread that shreds or breaks easily. The deLuxe™ Stitch System is useful for embroidery, quilting, or regular sewing any time you are working with delicate threads.

HUSQVARNA VIKING® EPIC 95Q sewing machine

How does the deLuxe™ Stitch System work?

The unique features on the HUSQVARNA VIKING® sewing machines allow the computer to choose which method of thread tension is best. If the machine senses that the thread being used is delicate or will break easily, the stitch system uses the Thread Portioning technique. For the thread portioning technique, the computer calculates out exactly how much thread is needed for each individual stitch, taking into account both the type and size of the stitch as well as the thickness of the fabric. It feeds that exact thread amount length through the machine for each stitch and no longer needs to apply constant tension to the thread.

To see the perfect stitches in action, watch this video by HUSQVARNA VIKING®.

Which machines feature the deLuxe™ Stitch System?

I personally use and love two sewing machines that feature the deLuxe™ Stitch System. I’ve had the DESIGNER BRILLIANCE™ 80 machine for a while and love using it for both embroidery projects as well as quilting projects. Additionally, I recently also added the EPIC™ 95Q machine to my collection. This machine works wonderfully for someone specifically focused on quilting.

The deLuxe™ Stitch System is available on all the following machines:

  • DESIGNER EPIC™ 2
  • DESIGNER SAPPHIRE™ 85
  • EPIC™ 95Q
  • EPIC™ 980Q
  • DESIGNER BRILLIANCE™ 80
  • the original DESIGNER EPIC™
  • DESIGNER RUBY deLuxe™ & DESIGNER RUBY Royale
  • DESIGNER DIAMOND deLuxe™ & DESIGNER DIAMOND Royale

Contact your local sewing machine dealer to test drive some machines and find the best one for you! As a HUSQVARNA VIKING® ambassador, I am also always happy to help answer your questions too!

0 In Quilting Tutorials/ Sewing Machines

Getting Started With a Serger

As someone who loves sewing and quilting and lots of other types of crafting, I get asked about sewing machines quite a bit. One specific type of sewing machine is a serger or “overlock” machine, and today I’m going to go over some serger basics for you!

I actually was sewing for years and years before ever getting a serger, so if you feel like you “need” one you might not really. While getting an overlock machine may not be essential, it is a really fun tool to have for certain techniques, and I find myself using mine on quilts often!

Watch this video to learn how to get started Serging, or continue reading to see each step of the process:

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1 In Sewing

Garment Sewing: Intermediate Level

If you have made a simple garment or two and want to tackle some bigger challenges, then this post is for you! This post is also for you if you’ve been sewing other things (like quilts!) for a little while and want to put those sewing skills to the test! I’m going to walk you through some new skills to learn how to sew your own clothes!

I started getting a lot more into garment sewing earlier this year after being super inspired by #MeMadeMay. If you aren’t familiar with #MeMadeMay, it’s when people deliberately wear homemade clothing as much as possible during the month of May and get to share their creations with the world! I was very inspired by all the beautiful garments I saw and just HAD to get started!

The first garment I sewed for Me Made May was my Peplum Top which you can read about here, and then I kept the garment sewing going by making myself a Molly Dress, re-vamping my wardrobe by altering some of my own clothes, and then even made a little girl dress too! Eventually I decided that I really should compile some of my garment tips and tricks into one place for you so I posted Tips for Beginning Garment Sewing. This post is a follow-up to that one, so go ahead and read my initial tips to learn how to sew with Rayon and some of the tools I love to use.

The fabric I used for this top is called Flower Toss in pink. It is part of the Rollakan collection by Cathy Nordstrom for FIGO Fabrics.

Today I want to share with you about the process of making my pink Gelato Blouse. This super comfortable, transitional summer-to-fall blouse fits perfectly into my current wardrobe and is already one of my absolute favorites for wearing to work! The Gelato Blouse Pattern features a couple slightly trickier techniques that make it perfect for an intermediate project. You’ll see this top has lots of ruffles, lots of buttons, and has sleeves, which I was actually scared of until I made this top!

Before I dive into my tips to master these skills, be sure to read about my Tips for Sewing with Rayon if you are using rayon for your project!

Tips for Sewing Ruffles

Ruffles are actually pretty easy and I probably could have shared these tips earlier in my beginner blog post, but the top I made to show off on that one did not have any ruffles so I left it out. The key in sewing gathers is to sew slow and accurate!

  • Using a contrasting thread color, sew a large basting stitch (I use the largest stitch size my machine has) 3/8″ away from the edge of the fabric, then go back again and sew another line at the 5/8″ mark. Be sure to leave long tails of thread on both sides of the stitches so you can gather
  • Grab both TOP threads and start to pull gently, careful not to break the thread but firm enough to make the fabric gather together.
  • Play around with your gather placement for a little while. You’ll want to make it as even as possible, which is harder than it looks!
  • Before sewing your gathered piece to the garment itself, I like to stitch another line using normal stitch length at the 3/8″ mark (over the first line you stitched). I find doing this extra step helps the gathering stay where you want it)

Tips for Sewing Buttons

I never would have tackled buttons if it weren’t for my amazing sewing machine. My HUSQVARNA VIKING machine actually has an automatic buttonhole foot that makes it a total breeze! I’m here to say though that you do not need a super fancy machine in order to succeed at making a button hole or sewing on the buttons!

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  • Regardless of what your machine is, be sure to look through the owner’s manual to find out what features your machine includes when it comes to button sewing.
  • Next, go to the good ole’ google machine and search for some videos of people using making buttonholes on your specific make or model of sewing machine.
  • Practice a few time on scraps of your fabric that you’re using on your garment. If the place on your garment where you’ll be putting the buttonhole is 2 layers of fabric and one layer of interfacing, then create a practice piece with the same layers to give you the most “real” practice experience.
  • Lastly, you’ve got this! I believe in you! You’ll be a button pro in no time!

Husqvarna Viking Jade 20 Sewing Machine

from: Sewingmachinesplus.com, Inc.

Tips for Sewing Sleeves

When sewing on sleeves, you will want to go slow and be very careful not to gather too much or too little. Your pattern will likely allow for a tiny but of gathering, and will show you how to match them up to the bodice, so each sleeve is even.

When getting ready to sew on your sleeves, I recommend pinning very carefully, and then sewing it on with a large basting stitch just as if you were doing the real thing. Basting stitches are much easier to take out just in case you don’t love how it looks the first go around. Once your sleeves are basted on, try the shirt on and see how it looks. Are the sleeve ladies even? Are there any accidental holes or puckers? Once everything looks satisfactory, go ahead and sew right on top of your basting stitch with a smaller stitch length. Ta-da, your sleeves are now done!

Never miss a post! Be sure to subscribe to the newsletter and follow @homemadeemilyjane on Instagram.

Want more project inspiration? Check out these popular posts:

5 In Embroidery/ Quilting/ Sewing/ Sewing Machines

The Top 5 Best Sewing Machine Features

Are you considering buying a new sewing machine? Maybe you’ve been having the itch to learn how to sew for a while now and you just want to dive in by getting your very first machine, or maybe you are gaining experience and are looking to upgrade! Whatever the case, I am here to help guide you towards finding the best machine for your needs! 

As a sewist and a quilter, there are a few key things I looked for when sewing machine shopping, and even some features that I wasn’t particularly looking for but I turned out to love SO MUCH! so are you ready to find out the Top 5 Best Sewing Machine Features?!

You might already know this about me, but I am a total HUSQVARNA® VIKING® fan. My very first machine was a HUSQVARNA® VIKING® EMERALD that I got for my 16th birthday and I’ve been obsessed with this brand ever since. The machines are total workhorses and have tons of unique design features with the sewist in mind! I recently upgraded to the HUSQVARNA® VIKING® DESIGNER BRILLIANCE 80 machine and I am pleased to announce that this machine has all 5 of these amazing features and so. much. more.

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2 In Quilting Tutorials/ Sewing Machines

Can I Learn to Free Motion Quilt on My Sewing Machine?

Maybe you’ve already noticed, but I have been dedicating a LOT of time over the past year focusing on hand quilting, and before that I did a ton of straight line walking foot quilting, but I am thinking maybe I should do some more quilting on my machine – Free Motion Quilting, to be exact – also known as FMQ! I have actually made a couple quilts over the years with FMQ but I have never been happy with my stitches or designs.

Recently, I heard about an online course for learning how to Free Motion Quilt and I’ve decided it’s time for me to get some official training on the topic! Signing up for Free Motion Quilting Academy will be a great way for me to expand my skillset & get better at it, while also getting to practice it with some accountability! I love the idea of taking an online course so I don’t have to give up a whole weekend & lug all my stuff to an in-person class, but I can still connect with the other quilters in the class via virtual groups & show off our progress in photos!

Click here to learn more about Free Motion Quilting Academy!img_0021

My most recent FMQ experience. Still very shaky!

Have you been wanting to learn how to Free Motion Quilt but you’re worried your machine isn’t up for the task??If you are concerned that you do not have the right machine for Free Motion Quilting, HollyAnne Knight is here to debunk your worries and explain what the most important things are to look for in a machine for FMQ! Continue Reading →

4 In Embroidery/ Sewing Machines

The Sewing Machine that Teaches You How to Sew

Beginner’s Guide to JoyOS ADVISOR™

This post is for all you high-tech high-quality sewing machine lovers out there! Did you know there is a way to have sewing instructions and tutorials completely integrated into your sewing machine?! It’s practically like having a sewing teacher that lives inside your machine!

Image result for hjoyosadvisor app

Since getting my HUSQVARNA® VIKING® DESIGNER BRILLIANCE™ 80 sewing/embroidery machine I have actually learned SO much about sewing, quilting, embroidery, materials, stabilizer, thread, stitch length, and well, a lot of stuff! One of my favorite features on this new HUSQVARNA® VIKING® machine (that I was not expecting to find so impactful) is the JoyOS ADVISOR™ which came built into the machine. Continue Reading →